May 14th, 2009
I’m trying to figure out what you folks are interested to have come out of this site?
Please drop a comment with your opinions.
Here are a few things that I had in mind. Let me know what you are thinking:
1. Forum for Monster Miata owners/wanna-bes/just-browsing’ers that basically covers a variety of areas such as issues, problems that have not been solved, remedied. General chat, discussion, etc…
2. Personal space for your Monster as part of this blog that allows you to make your own posts, direct picture uploads (my script reprocesses your photos to make them web friendly).
3. Would you want Martin’s Kit to be made available on this site for purchase? If so, would you want to be able to purchase parts of Martin’s kit at times and not the entire kit at once? I am asking this because I have the ability to accept any major credit cards as a business entity.
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May 6th, 2009
What a f’ing awesome day it is. Got two great things happening today besides that nasty roll over on the US-60 and bodies spilt…
First, I got my fuel pressure regulator perfectly dialed in. That engine is idling at a nice steady 780 RPM.
Second, I discovered today that when you type “Monster Miata” in the search query at Google, my site is now ranked number 5 out of all the potential matches. This happened because I had a handful of folks coming back and checking out the blog! Thank you all for your support. By the way, Yahoo ranks this site at number 7.
It’s extremely difficult to get a site with a generic query to land on the number one page of Google, or Yahoo.
Proof
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May 5th, 2009
I took a look at my old heads and started to ponder quite a bit because I noticed both of the valves on the old E7 stock heads were somewhat white. I am aware that the exhaust valve would be naturally white. But the intake valve shouldn’t be nearly anywhere as white as the exhaust valve. Regardless, there were indications that I was running a little lean. But with these larger intake heads, I cannot be running lean as I was on the E7′s.
I ordered an in-line fuel insert from Summit with an 1/8″ NPT thread for me to be able to put a gauge in-line to read back the pressure. As soon as I put it on the feed line, I was reading 32 PSI (no vacuum provided to the BBK FPR). I was like…? The stock pressure should have been at 38 PSI. No wonder my idle was somewhat choppy and rough. So, I adjusted it to 41 PSI, as recommended by AMP Performance’s mechanic – for those X306 heads.
I replaced the vacuum line to the tree and the pressure dropped to about 37 PSI, and when I rev the motor, it bumps up to about 40-41 PSI. I took the car out for a spin, and immediately could feel a major difference in engine performance. The exhaust smelled a lot better and the idle was steady too. Acceleration is much more consistent throughout the RPM ranges. Some weird vibrations with no real reason have supposedly disappeared.
Update: Picture of my fuel pressure gauge, inline.
Posted in Main, Modifications | No Comments »
May 1st, 2009
I drove the car to work for the first time today with the new engine configuration. One word: Damn. Now that I have gotten the engine off the steering rack, all the heavy vibrations are long and far gone. This car is a whole new car in that sense because now that all the weight is sitting on the rubber mounts and not on anything else.
The car definitely gives a stealth sense of real power. When I hit the 4,000 RPM range where torque meets the HP, somewhat… Man, what a boost of power. Enough to throw your head back as the car accelerates. What’s funny is that’s not even wide open throttle (WOT). I gave WOT a shot, and my god. The tires just spin and goes sideways. No smoke yet. The tires I have are drifting tires so they may be like smokeless powder for bullets. LOL.
On a separate note: I finally posted the replacement parts that consists all the product numbers for hoses, mounts, and the like. It’s under the pages list named as “Replacement Parts”.
Cheers.
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April 29th, 2009
Folks…
A very special advisory about using those FRPP (Ford Racing) heads or SVO heads:
Be SURE to read the information about your heads BEFORE inserting spark plugs. I found out, luckily, that my heads require the AGSF-32C. Here is the reason why (from SPARKPLUGS 101 by A-Train)
CAUTION: If your engine requires an AGSF type spark plug (full thread) and you attempt to install an AWSF type plug (half thread) you will be inserting the unthreaded portion of the spark plug into the threads of the cylinder head prior to the taper seat of the spark plug and the cylinder head comes in contact with it. This would tear up the threads and require a heli-coil to repair them or replacement of the cylinder heads.
Additionally:
CAUTION: DO NOT attempt to install AWSF type spark plugs into SVO/FRPP cylinder heads or damage to the threads can occur.
Also, these plugs are not to be used as a band aid for running lower than required octane rated gasoline’s in your engines. That’s working against yourself. Go as low as you can with the octane rating before it pings then move up a step (RON number). You will make the most power there. Remember, the higher the octane (RON), the less volatile the fuel and the more likely it will resist the initial burn. The lower the octane number the more volatile the fuel and more likely it is to explode when mixed with air and spark is present. Running 100 octane gasoline in your stock ’96 Crown Victoria is a waste of money. If you are running a chip or other means to advance the spark timing, then you may need to run 93 or higher octane. Combine that with the colder plugs and a lower temperature thermostat, you have dramatically reduced the engine from being knock constrained.
Consider yourself warned. Fortunately, I paid attention, imagine the costly damage this would have been to heads that are worth about $600 per.
I got my Motorcraft AGSF-32C spark plugs from a local dealership for $3.95 per. I got 12 in case I have the case of butterfingers or have a temporary lapse of knowledge of my own strength. Although I found the same spark plugs at O’Reilly’s Auto (or formerly known as Checkers Auto Parts to me) for $2.99 per.
Posted in Main, Motor upgrade | No Comments »
