Replacement Parts

I have been requested by some folks on part numbers that I promised to post on day 53 of my build process and never came around to it.  I apologize, folks.  Here are the part numbers:

Part No. Description Cost Where
FL-1A Motorcraft Oil Filter $3.49 AutoZone
M-4336 Kelly Springfield Heater Hose (Rear engine heater barb to firewall Barbs, both) 3 $8.99 AutoZone
61037 Goodyear Upper Radiator hose 1 $20.99 AutoZone
61296 Goodyear Lower Radiator hose 2 $19.99 AutoZone
NBH7447 Bypass $10.99 NAPA
NBH10799 Water Pump to Heater rail hose $16.29 NAPA
2448 Anchor Transmission Mount $12.99 AutoZone
2235 Anchor Motor Mount $4.99 AutoZone

Notes:
1 – If you have the aluminum fill cap housing that sits above the thermostat housing, you may need to cut this hose just before the bend to go in the thermostat housing to accommodate the fill cap housing.
2 – You may need to cut the hose a bit shorter to fit your application, cut at the smaller inner diameter end because this hose expands with a limited length as it goes to the water pump.
3 – If you don’t have access to AutoZone locally, look up Goodyear 63072 as a more expensive substitute ($16.99).

Belts:
As far as belts go, I use a 83.5″ belt, a GoodYear Gatorback belt because I have the smaller alternator pulley for my 3G alternator. I also have an A/C set up. The best way to find out how long you need is basically to run a string around the pulleys and subtract 1.5 inches for the tensioner pulley. A rule of thumb: If the pulley has no groove on it, the back-side of the pulley runs along that and grooved side to the groove of the belt. Sorry for the patronizing comments, but I’ve seen people f-up on simple stuff, myself included.

Air Conditioning Hoses and associated parts:
I had the A/C hoses custom made by a local A/C shop. You would be better off having your A/C custom done. Don’t have them do the electronics. I have the electronic schematic for you to accommodate your Miata A/C system to the Ford system.